One of the most comprehensive and useful studies we can perform in the world of cosmetic safety: use tests on volunteers.
April 2, 2026
Today I want to talk to you about something that, even though it’s becoming more and more common in our daily routines, remains one of the most overlooked aspects of hair care: the science behind the products. Because yes, silky textures, pleasant scents, and attractive packaging do make a difference… but when it comes to dandruff, sensitivity, hair loss, or scalp imbalances, all of that falls short if there’s no real evidence of effectiveness.
More and more consumers are looking for products that actually work, not just sound good. And that means looking beyond the marketing and learning to identify what sets an effective cosmetic product apart from one that’s simply well-marketed. In this post, I’d like to guide you through that journey: from global trends to how to interpret efficacy studies and why a well-formulated product makes a real difference.
For years, hair care focused almost exclusively on the hair shaft. Hydration, repair, shine, color, frizz… everything was geared toward the hair itself. But the reality of the market has changed. Today, concerns such as loss of density, excess oil, itching, dandruff, and irritation are among the most common.
And here’s something very interesting: all of these issues originate in the scalp, not in the hair shaft. In fact, nearly half the population admits to having experienced some form of scalp condition. This shift in needs is transforming the market globally. In many countries, a large proportion of consumers say that when they care for their scalp, the health of their hair improves directly. And this cause-and-effect relationship is so evident that it has given rise to a trend that is reshaping the industry: scalp-inification.
We can explain it this way: scalp-inification is the shift from traditional hair care toward a much more dermatological approach, directly inspired by skincare. In other words, it involves caring for your scalp the same way you would care for your face—using gentle yet effective ingredients, lightweight and well-tolerated formulas, and routines that aim to address the root causes, not just the symptoms.
For a long time, the scalp was practically synonymous with "dandruff." But today, brands—from dermocosmetics to masstige—are creating entire product lines to:
And it’s not just the claims that are changing—the formats are changing too.
Shampoos are now accompanied by serums, lotions, exfoliating toners, essences, overnight masks, and leave-on treatments. The idea is to offer ongoing solutions, not one-time fixes.
Because the scalp isn't just the skin underneath the hair: it's a tissue with very specific characteristics.
When the scalp becomes unbalanced, symptoms such as dandruff, redness, itching, excess oil, dryness, sensitivity, or hair loss may appear.
And all of this shows in your hair: less shine, less volume, uneven texture, or more noticeable hair loss. That’s why the industry is realizing that hair health doesn’t start with the hair shaft, but with the scalp.
This is the part I most enjoy sharing, because it’s part of my daily routine in the lab. When we formulate products for the scalp, we look for:
The most common formats are:
As for assets, the following stand out:
All of them reflect a skincare-focused approach, but tailored to the needs of the scalp.
It’s no longer enough to simply claim that a product “reduces dandruff” or “strengthens hair.” If we want honest and effective products, we need well-designed studies. And among these, in vivo studies—those conducted directly on volunteers—are the most relevant for the scalp.
The studies:
Specific equipment is used to obtain reliable data:
All of this ensures one fundamental thing: that the product’s claims are backed by measurable results, not just subjective perceptions or marketing.
What we are already seeing is a clear shift toward ingredients that are more compatible with the skin’s physiology, with more comprehensive efficacy profiles and robust clinical studies.
We're talking about ingredients that soothe inflammation caused by oxidative stress, balance the microbiome without causing irritation, reduce flaking and itching, support follicle health, and strengthen the skin barrier.
These are multifunctional ingredients designed to deliver benefits to both the scalp and the hair shaft, and they directly address the real concerns of today's consumers.
In short, the hair care industry is going through an exciting time: the convergence of scientific rigor and the demand for real solutions. And this brings us to a clear message:
Healthy hair starts with a healthy scalp.
When we understand its biology, care for it with the right ingredients, and have studies to back up their effectiveness, we can create products that don’t just promise results— they deliver them.
Find out more about Andrea Cano, R&D and Production Manager at MuttuLab, author of this article.
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